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Before
you buy a pool table,
you should kick the
tires and Look under
the hood. Well, at
least look under the
hood.
Buying
a pool table is
not much different
than buying a car--
or any product you
want to last for
a long time. The
closer you look,
the more you’ll
see which features
are important to
you and what will
fit your lifestyle.
And although you
can’t
test drive a pool
table, you can visit
a dealer’s
showroom to check
out the variety
of models.
But
before you go, it’s
important to be a
knowledgeable buyer.
That’s
where this "how
to buy a pool table" guide
comes in handy. Here
you’ll
find all you need
for making an informed
decision.
Do
you need a work truck,
a family wagon or
a luxury car? The
same considerations
should be made before
deciding what pool
table to buy. Some
tables are made for
the constant use of
professionals. Others
are built with the
family budget in mind,
yet can still hold
up to the abuse kids
give to all your furniture.
Other tables are beautifully
ornate in design and
a real showpiece for
any home. But whatever
you’re
personal needs or
taste, there is a
style for you.
LIFESTYLE
AND ROOM CONSIDERATIONS
Pool
tables are available
in a variety of materials,
styles and colors.
Traditional solid
hardwoods can be stained
in colors ranging
from whitewash to
dark mahogany. All
our pool tables can
be covered in the
cloth color of your
choice. So consider
your existing room
decor. You may even
want to bring a picture
of the room or your
fabric and carpet
samples with you when
you shop. Many dealerships
have experience helping
customers discover
the perfect table
for them.
Before
buying a pool table
ask yourself, "Will
it fit in our room?" You
wouldn’t
buy a large SUV and
expect it to squeeze
into your one-stall
garage. Likewise,
you’ll
want to make sure
your table has ample
playing room around
it. An approximate
five-foot perimeter
is suggested, so measure
your space to ensure
a good fit. If you’re
concerned a large
slab of slate won’t
fit through your doorway,
tables built for the
home use three-piece
slate. Almost the
only time one-piece
slate is used is on
coin-op tables.
For
a pool table to be
considered ‘regulation
size’ the
length of the playfield
is twice the width—and
most regulation-size
pool tables are built
in 7’,
8’ and
9’ lengths.
No matter which length
you choose, be aware
that minimum space
requirements will
change depending on
the size of the cue
you select.
For
specific room sizes,
use the following
measurements:
Key:
Use [A] for
48" cue
Use
[B] for 52" cue
Use
[C] for 57" cue
• For
a 7’ table
[A] allow for an
11’ 6" x
14’ 6" room
[B]
Allow for a
12’ x
15’ room
[C]
Allow for a 13’ x
16’ room
• For
an 8’ table
[A] Allow for a
12’ x
15’ 6" room
[B]
Allow for a
12’ 6" x
16’ room
[C]
Allow for a 13’ 6" x
17’ room
• For
a 9’ table
[A] Allow for a
12’ 6" x
16’ 6" room
[B]
Allow for a
13’ x
17’ room
[C]
Allow for a 14’ x
18’ room
TABLE
CATEGORIES
Veneer
wood pool tables offer
the appearance of
solid wood without
the cost. They are
built strong to last,
yet remain very affordable.
Solid
wood pool tables are
the best value in
traditional designs.
Because they are solid
wood throughout, these
tables often offer
more intricately carved
cabinetry and legs.
Heirloom
pool tables are crafted
in the traditional
method of building
furniture using solid
one-piece legs and
thick-walled cabinetry
with mortise and tenon
joinery.
Professional/Tournament
grade pool tables
are preferred by pros
and advanced league
players. These tables
are built to the tightest
industry specifications
for the most challenging
play.
ANATOMY
OF A POOL TABLE & WHAT
TO LOOK FOR IN
A POOL TABLE
Solid
Hardwood and Veneer.
What’s
the difference?
Veneer
is a thin layer of
solid hardwood bonded
to a laminated wood
sub-core. The advantage
is its value. It has
the appearance of
solid wood without
the cost.
Solid
hardwoods are heavier,
stronger and are better
able to withstand
stresses and wear
common to pool tables.
They come with a higher
price tag, and can
be intricately carved.
Compare table weights,
as weight reflects
the quality, design
and materials that
went into the construction.
Interlocking
frame and slate
support.
A
better built table
has center beams that
run the length of
the table and interlock
with the cross members.
This stabilizes the
slate and cabinet
of the table with
substantially greater
support, and distributes
the weight evenly
throughout the table.
Cross members are
necessary to ensure
the best support for
each piece of slate.
Note that some main
beams are purely cosmetic—drop-in
vs. full length—offering
little or no support
to the slate.
Cabinet & Leg
Joinery.
Look
for a securing system
that ensures an exact
cabinet fit. Two examples
of the strongest systems
are MLD (Machined
Locking Dowels) and
the more traditional
method of building
tables (and most fine
furniture), with mortise
and tenon joinery.
Check out how the
legs are mounted to
the cabinet. Some
manufacturers use
corner leg joinery
made of stamped sheet
metal. Using more
securing bolts will
provide much greater
stability.
Details
and craftsmanship.
How
is the table put together?
Is it just stapled
and glued together,
or is it glued, screwed
and bolted for greater
strength? Is the table
designed with minimal
structural support?
Tables that last are
those that are built
to withstand the rigors
of years of play.
Get
on your back and crawl
underneath the table.
This is where one
of those mechanics’ creepers
would come in handy.
Look up and notice
the slate. Either
Brazilian or Italian
slate will offer an
acceptable playing
surface. Italian slate
is recognized as the
finest playing surface
and is used in sanctioned
tournament play. High-end
tables use slate backed
with 3/4" engineered
wood. It provides
better slate protection
and sound absorption.
Take
a close look at the
wood. Make sure the
rails, blinds, cabinet
and legs are made
using the same type
of wood. Some manufacturers
use different, cheaper
wood components leaving
you, for instance,
with a table whose
legs look different
than the cabinet.
On
contemporary styled
pool tables, look
for the use of metal
hardware on the cabinet
and rail corners vs.
plastic. Feel the
pockets. Hard plastic
can crack with wear.
Make sure the pockets
are made of leather.
Unless the design
prohibits.
Check
out the rails. Look
at the width and profile.
Ask what technology
is being used in the
cushion. K66 full
profile cushion is
the industry standard.
The cushion should
also be canvas-backed.
This helps the rubber
adhere the cushion
to the wood rail for
durability and more
accurate and consistent
play.
Rails
and Cushions
Check
out the rails. Look
at the width and profile.
The use of laminated
maple core rails is
preferred on pool
tables. It minimizes
rebound vibration
and produces exceptional
ball response. Where
as rails with a soft
core won’t
give you the same
fast play.
Ask
what technology is being
used in the cushion.
K66 full profile cushion
is the industry standard.
The cushion should also
be canvas-backed. This
helps the rubber adhere
the cushion to the wood
rail for durability
and more accurate and
consistent play.
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